This year the Corinna B’s World Glam Italia Tour took in the Amalfi Coast from a different angle. Instead of staying in Sorrento, Positano or Praiano as we have done in the past, this time we stayed at the bottom end of the Amalfi Coast in one of my new absolute favorite places in Italy, the magnificent and almost tourist free Salerno.
I am in love with this glorious little city on the water.
|my giant door in Salerno|
In Salerno I live behind a giant door.
A door so big you can’t quite believe it.
|arriving home at night we are dwarfed by the door|
There’s a courtyard behind this door and a big old palazzo that is now apartments.
When the plaster falls away there are signs of the life centuries ago.
|artwork peeping through the layers of plaster|
|there is always something hidden under the layers of plaster and paint|
A narrow alley runs between palazzi built so close together you could jump from one to the next if bandits attacked in the night.
|the alleyway between the two palazzi, from my bedroom balcony|
The cross breeze blows through the curtains making them float like ghosts in the night.
|bedroom curtains at night|
My home in Salerno is on a very narrow street. Not much more than two arms wide and as old as the hills.
|my street in Salerno|
|yellow scooter in Salerno|
Ideal for scooters and tiny cars, a suburban couldn’t even make the bend.
Run by byzantine gangs in another lifetime, my street is now artsy and cool.
|my street in Salerno|
There is a stunning cathedral a half block away with St Matthew’s bones.
|Duomo San Matteo in Salerno was built between 1080 and 1085|
|San Matteo, Salerno|
|popes were buried at Duomo San Matteo, Salerno|
The is an 8th Century castle up on the hill, standing over all who breathe the air below.
|Castello di Arechi, Salerno|
Laura from the cafe has young sons who play in the piazza while we talk over espressos in the morning and white wine at night. She tells me she dreams of one day seeing Miami.
|morning cappuccino at Laura’s|
|Laura’s cafe and bar, seen from her garden terrace across the piazza|
Anna owns a restaurant in a converted 5th century chapel. It’s called Taverna Santa Maria De Domno. I cannot go to Salerno and not eat there at least once.
Her food is so good you have to eat it as slowly as you can. It fills your soul while it fills your belly. and she tells stories that make you cry you laugh so hard.
|inside the Taverna Santa Maria De Domno. Salerno|
|Inside Taverna Santa Maria De Domno, Salerno|
Sunday mornings call for sugar.
|Sunday morning sugar, Salerno|
The beachfront promenade is the loveliest on the entire Amalfi Coast.
|the waterfront in Salerno|
I can’t wait to get back to Salerno.
Where to stay in Salerno
Book an apartment in a centuries old, renovated palazzo in the historical center of Salerno.
I stay HERE a half block behind the beautiful Duomo San Matteo. The apartment is perfect, the landlord is cool, and has become a good friend.
Excursions and day trips
My friend (and landlord!) Adriano de Falco can take you on amazing hikes, day trips and excursions in the Salerno and greater Amalfi Coast area. Adriano is super knowledgeable and great fun, so you are guaranteed a wonderful day out, wherever it is that you choose to go.
Contact Adriano HERE
Where to eat in Salerno
My favorite place to eat in Salerno is the amazing Taverna Santa Maria De Domno in the historic center of town. The food is unbelievable, the wine list is sensational (I don’t know enough to choose wines in Campania, so either my local friends do it or Nello chooses for me) and the ambience is just gorgeous in this renovated 5th century chapel.
For details, reviews and to make a reservation, check HERE