Just One Day In Procida


I have been to Capri many times, and loved it.
But lately Capri has felt less like the jet-set world of Jackie O, and more like the hellish realm of a disgorged cruise ship.

Capri is definitely chic. No question. But it has become horribly touristy. There is invariably a cruise ship or two in the harbor, and during the day the piazzetta can be a nightmare crush of humanity that you have to wade your way through in order to get anywhere. Somewhere along the way I started losing interest.

When I was planning this year’s Glam Italia Tour, which included a week on the Amalfi Coast I just couldn’t face taking anyone to Capri. I know I will go back at some point, but for now I have a new island love, and that love is called Procida.

Arriving in Procida

Procida is the smallest island in the Bay of Naples’ Campanian Archipelago, at a mere 3.2 km long.


incredibly colorful arrival in Procida!

One of the 24 most colorful places in the world, Procida has attracted movie directors over and over as the setting for their films, so much of it may feel familiar to you.
(The movie Il Postino was shot on Procida and on the Aeolian island of Salina).


Marina Corricella, Procida

You get to Procida by ferry or hydrofoil from Naples, and the “wow” factor on arrival is just staggering. Out of the blue, blue ocean, set against the blue, blue sky erupts an explosion of color in the form of bright yellow and pink fishermen’s houses, that will take your breath away.

 Related Post: 8 Things You MUST Do In Naples

morning sun in Procida

Procida feels authentic. A weekend retreat for the people of Naples, it doesn’t have the manic tourism and outdoor mall feel of nearby Capri.

Where to stay on Procida

I did spot one Tshirt shop while there, and I’m sure there must have been a couple more, but as you walk around town you feel as though you have stepped into some secret slice of shabby-chic Italian island life that hasn’t been polluted by major retailers and Chinese manufacturers.
It looks and feels real.


narrow streets of Procida

The streets are narrow and windy and in some places steep. You can spend hours just wandering around and exploring.


pink houses in Procida

The perfect day trip to Procida would start by taking the very first ferry or hydrofoil from Naples.
Walk around the port area and have an espresso or two, then take your time and discover the streets as they weave and wind up the hill, working your way over to Corricella.

 Related Post: 10 Things You Must Do On The Amalfi Coast

socks hanging out to dry on shutters

Marina Corricella, is a darling and picturesque sliver of a bay that backs onto a cliff made out of fisherman’s houses.


fishing nets drying in the sun, Corricella, Procida

Fishing nets lie out to dry along the waterfront and fishing boats moor against the sea wall – did I mention it feels authentic??


fishing boat moored in Marina Corricella

Marina Corricella is the perfect place to stop for lunch. There are several oceanfront restaurants to choose from, but we wound up taking in the view from Bar Graziella. The hilarious and engaging owner Vincenzo opened Bar Graziella in 1964, and apparently was the first restaurant in Corricella.
The food is bountiful and inexpensive. We ordered a platter of seafood antipasti and a salad, supposedly an order for one person, but there was more than enough for 4!


Lunching under the umbrellas at Bar Graziella, Corricella, Procida

After lunch walk along the eastern shore from Corricella to Chaia beach. You’ll take a long flight of stairs to the sand but you need the walk to burn off lunch.

 Related Post: 18 Things You Probably Didn’t Know About Pompeii

streets of procida

When you are done beaching head either on foot or by bus up to Terra Murata and Abbazia di San Michele. You can check out the walled fortress which was at one time a monastery and until recently a prison, take in the stunning panoramic views of the Bay of Naples. Here from the highest point on the island you can walk down through the two stone gateways into the still inhabited idyllic settlement of Terra Murata. Wander around some more, and make sure you visit the art filled, romantic little church, Abbey of St Michael.


selfie in Celine sunglasses in Procida

Sightseeing done, make your way back to the port and enjoy a locally made gelato before boarding your hydrofoil back to Napoli.

 Related Post: The Ancient Greek Temples Of Paestum

Limon Gelato, Procida

My only regret about the Glam Italia 2 Tour is that I allowed just one day in Procida.
Although the island is small, it is the perfect place to escape to. You can stay here for days on end doing nothing much at all. Evenings on Procida are said to be magic. This is the ideal spot to sneak away to with your Italian lover, or to plan a little romantic getaway.


Another place to stay on Procida (check out these photos!)

From nearby Ischia it is 30 minutes by boat, from Naples 40 minutes by hydrofoil.

All images in this post apart from the one noted, were taken with my iPhone during the Glam Italia 2 Tour. Please do not use any of them without written permission from me.

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10 Things To Do On The Amalfi Coast

The Amalfi Coast has to be one of the most beautiful, most chic, most fabulous stretches of coastline in Europe. Winding it’s way from Positano to Salerno, the Amalfi Coast is a wonderland of things to see and do, from taking in it’s aching beauty, to exploring ancient villages, dining like kings, relaxing like heiresses and generally feeling like a jet-setter.



Here are 10 of my favorite things to do on the Amalfi Coast.

1. Drive it!

Drive the Amalfi Coast road

Rent a stick shift/manual transmission car (they are far more fun to drive), pull the side mirrors in, and take yourself for a drive along one of the most beautiful coast roads in the world.
Driving the Amalfi Coast road is both fun and breathtaking, partially due to the incredible scenery and partially due to the narrow, high, winding road and the buses that come hurtling along it! You need to keep your mirrors in as you will find yourself closer than you had ever planned to be to the rock wall on one side, and the oncoming bus on the other. But what a magnificent drive it is! Don’t worry if you can’t drive a stick shift – you will hardly ever get beyond 2nd gear anyway. Traffic rolls slowly, which isn’t such a bad thing when the views are this spectacular!

Related Post: 8 Things You Must Do In Naples

2. Enjoy A Glass Of Wine At Il San Pietro di Positano.

Mediterranean Terrace, Hotel San Pietro Positano

Sitting on the Mediterranean Terrace of the Hotel Il San Pietro di Positano late in the afternoon with a glass of wine has to be the closest you can get to being in heaven itself.
Considered to be one of the very best 5 Star hotels in the world, Il San Pietro is also one of the most beautiful. The views from the Mediterranean terrace are beyond spectacular, and include the island of Capri and the most famous view of Positano.
Everything about this place is magic, and is absolutely not to be missed!
Read more about the Hotel Il San Pietro Di Positano in my blogpost here
Book a room at the San Pietro here

3. Take A Hike.

Not at all difficult, but completely awe inspiring views, the Sentiero Degli Dei (Pathway of the Gods) is an unforgettable experience.



The pathway links the town of Agerola with Nocelle in Positano.
You can access it by bus at Agerola (get off at the Bomerano stop), or if you are in the mood for stair climbing you can start at Praiano and climb  along flight of stairs up 580 meters above sea level to the Colle Serra Pass. (I’d rather die). From there you walk through the heavens, taking in views that defy belief. Chances are you will encounter grazing sheep and goats along the way.
When you reach Nocelle you can either take the bus down, or walk down the 1500 stairs to the Arienzo neighborhood. If it’s summer time take another 300 stairs down to the beach for a swim.
In ancient times Nocelle was only reachable by foot, climbing the stairs from Positano.
If you start at Agerola the hike will take you around 4 hours.


4. Buy Ceramics At LizArt in Praiano.


A few years ago my bestie and I rented an apartment above the Liz Art ceramics store in Praiano (Via Roma 42). It was wonderful. Every day when we came home we would sit at the giant table in the ceramics store with Anna (the owner) and Laura (who worked there) and various local ladies, and they would ask us all about our day. The ladies would bring us bowls of fruit from their gardens to have in our apartment, including lemons and local fruit nespole. I loved walking around the store, and before we left we each bought several pieces of ceramics, handmade by Anna’s family. I still absolutely treasure them.
I will be back on the Amalfi Coast in a couple of weeks, and hopefully will be able to see the ladies again, and buy more ceramics. They ship everything to your home, so you don’t need to worry about traveling with breakables.
Check out their website here

Related Post: Discover The Palace Of Caserta

5. Take A Boat Trip Along The Coast.

Ferries and hydrofoils run the length of the Amalfi Coast. One of the loveliest ways to experience the coast is by boat, so stretch out in the sun and enjoy the unfettered views from the water. You can also take a chartered boat tour along the coast, for a full day or a half day tour.

6. Explore Beautiful Salerno.

Salerno is one of the Amalfi Coast’s best kept secrets.
Situated at the opposite end of the coast from Positano, you can either drive or take a ferry. After the tourist mayhem of Capri and the rest of the coast, secret Salerno is a welcome respite. You can breathe in the sea air all to yourself as you stroll the loveliest beach promenade on the Amalfi Coast, enjoy fantastic restaurants and wine bars without huge crowds, stroll through medieval streets, taking in the history, photographing anything you want without endless tourists getting in the way.




Sunday afternoon in the old town of Salerno

The cathedral in Salerno, San Matteo, was built in 1085. Mostly destroyed by American bombs during World War II, parts of the cathedral have been rebuilt, and parts of the original still stand. The crypt holds St Matthew’s bones, and is well worth the trip to see it.

Related Post: Discover The Greek Temples At Paestum

7. Take A Day Trip to Capri

You really just have to.
Plan on spending a couple of minutes in the main piazza, then head out in any direction as fast as you can to escape the tourist crush.
Make sure you go see my old friend Aldo Lella and his lovely little wife Lydia at their sandal shop, Schettino. Aldo made sandals for Jackie O, so when I first met him I had him make them for me too!
Please tell Aldo and Lydia you read about them in my blog – they get a huge kick out of it, and they actually keep copies of receipts from my blog readers so that they can show me every couple of years when I drop in for a visit!
Aldo is 92 this year, and chances are he may not be there if you wait too many years to go see them. I’ve written about them before here: Buying Sandals In Capri
I also have a post on What To Do In Capri, which covers my 8 favorite things to do while I’m on the island.

8. Visit Ravello

The drive up the hill to Ravello is a little on the hair-raising side, but is immediately forgotten when you reach this lovely little hilltop town.


Villa Rufolo Ravello

Take in an evening concert under the stars at the Villa Rufolo during the world famous music festival that takes place from April to October. Walk around the Villa Cimbrone,


Villa Cimbrone Ravello

then have a glass of wine at the wonderful Hotel Caruso and look out at the world from their infinity pool in the sky.
The Caruso in Ravello is a divine place to stay on the Amalfi Coast, super chic and luxe. See the Hotel Caruso Ravello here

9. Visit The Grotto Dello Smeraldo, Positano.

Grotto Dello Smeraldo, Positano

Everyone has heard of the Blue Grotto in Capri, but most have never been to the Emerald Grotto outside of Positano. It wasn’t discovered until 1932, kept secret by not having a natural outlet above the waterline. From the Amalfi Coast road you walk down to sea level where you take a boat and go inside this amazing emerald colored sea cave.

Related Post: Things You Probably Didn’t Know About Pompeii

10. Dinner At Villa Gabrisa In Positano

I always make sure that I go to the restaurant at the Hotel Villa Gabrisa in Positano,  no matter where I am staying on the Amalfi Coast.
Sit outside and take in the view of Positano by night as you enjoy one of the best meals of your life, or enjoy the ambience inside their small dining room – either way it’s an absolute win, and an evening you will remember forever.


private terrace at the Hotel Villa Gabrisa in Positano

The hotel itself is a luscious little boutique hotel that oozes romance. The rooms have very sizeable private terraces that look out over the ocean, and make the perfect place for an end of evening limoncello, or your early morning coffee.
It is absolutely divine. Check out the Hotel Villa Gabrisa here



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What To Wear (This Year) On Capri

I have had so many emails asking what I recommend to wear this year on Capri.
Here are 6 items that are on my packing list:


I love this Felicity and Coco Striped Maxi Dress from Nordstrom.
Strapless maxi dresses are so fresh and modern, and the detail in the back paired with the way the stripes curve over your derriere make it extra lovely. The skirt has enough movement in it to give you freedom to wander all over the island while still looking chic.


Rachel Zoe Chain Detail Halter Maxi Dress
Perfect for a dinner date or drinks on a terrace with a view. I love this dress in Marrakesh Blue.


Nic and Zoe Cool Breeze Linen Pants in white. Because white linen pants paired with jewel toned tops or pretty, summery sleeveless items are ideal on Capri. 


Diane Von Furstenburg ‘Aubrey’Silk Top
Paired with white linen pants this top is perfect for chic lunches, apres-beach aperitifs, or casual dinners watching the sun hit the water.


Melissa Odabash Yellow Martinique Bikini


Helen Kaminski’s Provence 12 Packable Raffia Hat looks lovely, shades you from the hot Capri sun and packs in your suitcase effortlessly.


Where should you stay on Capri? I prefer renting apartments and villas to staying in hotels. Next time I’m in Capri I’m hoping to rent this lovely home, just minutes from the plazetta.

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