Porticus of Octavia ~ Why You Need To See This Site In Rome

One of the things I love so much about Rome is that you can turn almost any corner and find yourself in the midst of some incredible set of ruins dating back to before Christ. Sometimes long, long before Christ.

Each of them seem to have a fascinating story behind them, and frequently you can trace that story across millennia to where we are now.

One of these sets of ruins dating back 2200+ years sits smack bang in the middle of Rome, mere minutes’ walk from the Forum, and although there will be literally thousands of people just up the street, you’d be lucky to find more than a dozen people wandering around and taking photos right here.

The Porticus of Octavia in Rome
The Porticus of Octavia in Rome dates back 2200 years

This is the Porticus of Octavia. It is immediately next door to the Teatro Marcello and leads you straight into the Jewish Ghetto, where you can stop for a glass of wine and some artichokes or maybe just a quick coffee on your way to somewhere else.

If you have my book Glam Italia! 101 Fabulous Things to Do in Rome: Beyond the Colosseum, the Vatican, the Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps you can find more information as well as a guide to what’s in walking distance from here in the Ancient Rome section.

A Very Ancient History

Back in 179 B.C a temple to the Goddess Juno was built on this site. Then in 146 B.C a temple to Jupiter Stator was built right next to it, and the two were enclosed in the Porticus Metelli.

Fast forward 120 years and Emperor Augustus decided it was time for some renovating and gave the complex a rebuild, naming it for his sister Octavia. This is the structure we see now.

The Teatro marcello in Rome dates back to before Christ
The Teatro Marcello in Rome may well have been the prototype for the Colosseum. It was built just down the road, 84 years prior.

Octavia was the mother of Marcellus, namesake of the theater next door.

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Murder In The Family

Just to make things even more interesting, Augustus’ wife Livia is thought to have killed Octavia’s son Marcellus to knock him out of the running to be Emperor. Basically everyone who potentially came between her own son Tiberius and the  job of emperor mysteriously died, including in the end Augustus himself.

I go into this in the book – the story is fascinating and Livia is one of the two villainesses in my history of Rome. Of course there were more than two, but I give you one from ancient Rome and one from Renaissance Rome.

The Temples And The Art

In its time this must have been an incredible sight to see. The Teatro Marcello and the Porticus of Octavia with the two temples would have all been gleaming in the sunshine, bright white travertine.

Porticus of Octavia Rome
In its day the Porticus of Octavia would have been all gleaming white travertine. Columns form the two temples dating back 2200 years still remain.

We know from Pliny the Elder’s book A Natural History, that both the porticoes of Octavia and Metelli as well as the two temples were full of art. Statues and frescoes were abundant, and the entire area would have been beautiful.

Octavia also built a library, curia and lecture halls in this complex.

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A History of Fires

There were two notable fires here, the first in 80 A.D and was repaired by Domitian. Then in 203 A.D there was another fire which had repairs done by Septimus Severus and his maniac son Caracalla. There is an inscription along the top that names both and also says Incendio Corruptum Rest, which means restored after a fire.

Inscription on the Porticus of Octavia tells of a rebuild by Septimus Severus and his son Caracalla after a fire
The inscription across the front of the Porticus tells of the rebuild after the fire.

In 442 A.D an earthquake felled the original columns along the front, which were then replaced by the arch you see now.

The Middle Ages

After the fall of Rome the beautiful Porticus of Octavia fell to ruin and became a fish market, remaining so until the late 19th century. In 770 A.D the church of Sant’ Angelo in Pescheria was built in the back of the ruins, Translated in means Church of The Holy Angel In The Fish Market

RELATED POST: 15 BOOKS SET IN ITALY TO READ BEFORE YOU TRAVEL

In my book Glam Italia! 101 fab I give you a breakdown of everything you are seeing and show you some incredibly cool details to look for, such as which stones are B.C and which correspond to the various centuries A.D.

You are also mere steps away from one of my favorite eateries in Rome, where I have spent endless evenings dining al fresco and tourist free. It’s all in the book – order your copy from Amazon today!

Want something else that’s really cool to do in Rome? I have a Free PDF of the Best Rooftop Bars In Rome. These are places with gorgeous views and wonderful drinks. Any of them are the perfect place to end a long day of sightseeing, taking in the sunset, the view and an icy cold Prosecco! Download your Best Rooftop Bars In Rome PDF HERE

HP Commission

Why Rome Should Ban McDonalds At The Pantheon

Junk food giant McDonalds is trying (re)open a temple to processed meat at the place built 2000 years ago to be a temple to all Gods, and I for one am not happy about it.

The Pantheon in Rome was built 2000 years ago by emperor Hadrian.
The Pantheon was built 2000 years ago by Emperor Hadrian. It has been in constant use ever since.

Italy pioneered the slow food movement, a movement that is about real food, in season, not processed, as close to farm to table as possible, eaten at a table with friends and family. Basically the complete antithesis to the garbage that is McDonalds.

So the American junk franchise aggressively trying to push its way into the sites of ancient ruins is even more offensive than otherwise.

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No One Wins With McDonalds. Except McDonalds.

Although there’s a McDonalds on every street corner in America they are few and far between in Italy. The Fast food culture hasn’t really taken off in Italy, a country where meals are consumed sitting at a table be it at home or in a restaurant.

But McDonalds isn’t targeting Italians. Italy is one of the most touristed countries in the world, and McDonalds wants those tourists, so it is trying to worm its way into the big tourist sites. Just last week they got turned away from the Baths of Caracalla, this week they are trying to pollute the Pantheon.

The Piazza della Rotonda, home of the Pantheon has a variety of eating options, from artiginal gelato, to the most famous coffee shop in the world (Tazza d’Oro) to a variety of trattoria and restaurants. You can sit outside at a table with a view of the Pantheon and enjoy Italian food and culture. McDonalds wants to violate that, siphoning off Americans and Chinese and plowing their tourist dollars into junk-o-rama at the expense of the local businesses.

RELATED POST: 10 THINGS YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST DO IN ROME

Three Ways McDonalds Makes Rome Lose

There are multiple ways the city loses when McDonalds comes to town, but lets look at three of them:

* Local Business Suffers

Italians don’t really benefit too much from all these tourists. Beautiful, historical piazzas such as Piazza della Rotonda don’t charge an entry fee, you just walk in. The only way the city and the people make money is by tourists spending money in stores and at food establishments. Local business benefit from the influx of tourists sitting at their tables, eating their food.

Glam Italia Tour in Rome at the Pantheon in Piazza della Rotonda
June 2019, Glam Italia Tour at the Pantheon

If a percentage of those tourists are now getting Big Macs instead, those local businesses get hurt.

* The Trash!

American fast food chains generate an extraordinary amount of trash. Here in the states people walk around eating fast food and then (hopefully) dump the refuse into trash cans. Look around any American city and see how much fast food rubbish is littered around the streets. A McDonalds by the Pantheon is going to create trash around the Pantheon.

traash on the streets of Rome has become a crisis
Trash in Rome has reached crisis levels since the closure of the Malagrotta landfill a few years ago, then the fire at the Salario landfill last year.

It should also be noted that Rome already has a problem with trash collection and disposal. The city doesn’t need American food franchises adding to the volume and making it worse.

* The Extra Crowds

A McDonalds at the Pantheon will draw even more people into the area as tourists follow the signs to the golden arches. As tricky as it can be to take a photo of the Pantheon without tourists getting in the way, a McDonalds will make it worse.

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The Burden Of Extra Tourists In The Piazza

Bringing American tourists to a McDonalds at the Pantheon also brings more problems, for everyone – you and me included.

* PICKPOCKETS

Whether they are right or wrong, pick pockets think American tourists have the best and easiest stuff to steal. The average American tourist is likely to have more cash on them than the average European or Eastern European. The flash more jewelry, more overall bling, and as a result are pickpocket magnets.

If you were a pickpocket and didn’t want to hang out at the Trevi Fountain, a big American fast food chain would be the next best thing. Easy pickings from distracted tourists busy supersizing their orders and plowing through fries. I wouldn’t care about that – serves you right for eating there, but now you have drawn more pickpocketing to the area, and that impacts all of us.

* TERROR TARGETS

If you belong to some deranged sect and want to inflict harm on a large group and get your cause some internationally televised fame and attention, what better place to do it than one where Americans hang out? McDonalds, Starbucks, Subway – none of them should be in Italy, period. I tell all of my Glam Italia Tour travelers to stay the heck away from them and with the exception of two travelers, over the years have been successful.

Although I travel the world without fear of terror attacks, I do consciously avoid the areas around McDonalds and Co. While writing this I did a quick google search on terror attacks and McDonalds. It looks like over the years there have been plenty.

McDonalds had a junk food palace in the Piazza della Rotonda in the past but was run out of town back in 2011. Hopefully the powers that be will turn their backs on any kickbacks paying the chain’s way into the piazza. The reversal on permitting the proposed Baths of Caracalla McDonalds at least gives me some hope.

If you feel you need McDonalds to be part of your travel experience, maybe just stay home?

Do you want a bigger, more authentic experience in Rome, away from the tourist crowds but still in the heart of the city? My new book Glam Italia! 101 Fabulous Things to Do in Rome: Beyond the Colosseum, the Vatican, the Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps shows a different side of the Eternal City, with loads of options for incredible things to do without the crush of tourists! It is already a bestseller – get your copy today and see why!

Driving In Italy ~ 16 Super Important Things You Need To Know

Are you thinking about renting a car and driving while you are in Italy? Or maybe you are wondering if it is necessary to have a car while you are there?

As someone who rents cars in Italy several times per year, I can tell you there is nothing so freeing and fun as getting behind the wheel of a zippy little Italian car and racing through the hills of Tuscany, the olive lined roadways of Puglia or the lesser traveled parts of Lazio. With Italian music blasting, the wind blowing your hair while you glamorously look at the road ahead through an oversized pair of sunglasses – what could be more fabulous?

Fiat 500 convertible in Capri

I can also tell you the heart pounding stress that comes with your GPS dumping you into the heart of a busy city, backing up a long line of cars because you got in the telepass lane at the toll booth by mistake or finding yourself deep, deep inside the one way street labyrinth of the storico centro in a medieval town that was built for horses not cars – going the wrong way (all of which I have done) can ruin a trip or at least leave you a nervous wreck.

My book Glam Italia! How To Travel Italy: Secrets To Glamorous Travel (On A Not So Glamorous Budget) has an entire chapter on all the ins and outs you seriously need to know before renting a car and driving in Italy. If you are planning on driving there I sincerely recommend you read it before renting a car or getting behind the wheel in Italy.

1. Before You Rent A Car

First things first, let’s look at your trip and see if you even need to drive while you’re in Italy. Start by mapping your trip and seeing if a car is necessary. If your trip is primarily major cities, for example you are going to Rome, Florence and Venice then no you definitely do not need a car. If your trip is going to be spent exploring outside of the cities look to see whether the places you are going are on a train route.

So much of Italy has really fantastic train access that frequently not only do you not need a car, but a car would be slower and more expensive.

If your travel plans include aimlessly roaming the hill towns of Tuscany, or exploring Puglia, Basilicata, Calabria or Sicily, then a car is going to be essential.

RELATED POST: HOW TO GET FROM THE AIRPORT INTO ROME

2. Inside Italy’s Cities

You do not need a car inside the cities. In fact I emphatically recommend you do not get a car if you are inside the cities. Public transport is excellent, and in the big cities taxis are plentiful, so you can get anywhere you want to go quite easily.

Fiat driving tour in Florence
A Fiat driving tour rolled past us while we were lunching in Florence

On the other hand driving inside the cities can be treacherous, incredibly stressful and very expensive.

It is so easy to get lost and your GPS can be more of an enemy than a friend, especially inside old towns where the signal doesn’t always find you.

I was recently walking in Venice with some women who wanted to go to a specific restaurant that was at best a little wiggly to get to. Walking through the narrow calle the GPS would drop and a couple of times I had to take us back into an open campo to let the signal find my phone again. There was much eye-rolling and snorting from the peanut gallery who just didn’t get it that there wasn’t a consistent GPS signal.

This is just a nuisance when you are on foot, but when you are driving it can be really stressful and have you going down the wrong streets and getting into situations you cannot easily get back out of.

3. Parking

Parking inside the cities can be hard to come by. It almost always requires parallel parking super-proficiency, and the ability to not only parallel park in traffic, but with only an inch or two space at either end of the car.

There are parking buildings here and there but they can be very difficult to find and once inside the individual parking spaces are small and tight.

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4. ZTLs

ZTLs are very expensive traps for unsuspecting tourists. The Zona Traffico Limitato or Limited Traffic Zone is designed so that only cars with a special permit can go inside. These are normally, but not always, in the central heart of a city, as well as in small villages and towns.

Italy ZTL sign zona traffico limitato

Your GPS probably will not recognize a ZTL and will send you straight into the heart of it. With everything else that is going on chances are you won’t even see the warning sign. If you are on a one way street you can be inside the ZTL before you even realize it, or worse still you see it coming but have no way to get back out of it!

ZTLs are monitored with cameras that catch you the moment you cross into one. It will take months to arrive but suddenly you find yourself with a steep fine that nearly doubles if not paid within 60 days. You also get an “admin fee” from the rental car company, charged to your credit card.

In all likelihood it won’t just happen once – if you are not on top of it you can find yourself going in and out of ZTLs without realizing and find yourself with multiple fines. On an Italy travel forum that I was reading a traveler was fined over 2400 euros, a year after his Italy trip. He hadn’t known where all the ZTLs were and just drove in and out of them, somewhere near 24 times!

zona traffico limitato in Italy ZTL
You wouldn’t necessarily pick up on this sign if you were in Italian traffic with cars honking their horns at you as you try to figure your way with your GPS…

So even if your parallel parking skills are on point and you don’t get stressed easily, I sincerely recommend not driving inside the cities.

5. Discover New Towns And Villages

Having a rental car and driving around the countryside, discovering random little towns the tour buses don’t go to is one of my absolute favorite things to do in Italy.

The trick to it is to keep an open mind, decide ahead of time you won’t allow yourself to get stressed out, and then go have fun!

On my most recent trip to Italy I flew into Bari, picked up a rental car and then drove by myself across Puglia and Basilicata to get to La Rabatana

It was a beautiful and easy drive, except for one roundabout that had 5 exits, and that the GPS couldn’t decode. At various points I was going the wrong way, heading back to the airport, even driving through an olive grove! The only reason I made it to the correct exit from the roundabout was that the other 4 were wrong!

It was such a lovely drive though that I forgot to get stressed out. My feeling about driving around the countryside in Italy is so what if you get lost or go through some roundabout shenanigans – it’s all part of the fun. Getting lost just means discovering some incredible little town, and is actually how I have discovered most of my favorite secret places!

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6. Map It Before You Go

Another good idea is to print out maps of your route before you drive off. You can’t rely on GPS alone, and having a backup little map showing you how to get from point A to point B at least will give you a concept of where you’re heading.

Also, should you lose cell service/have no data/lose Wi-Fi/run out of battery you will be glad you had a back up plan!

7. Look For City Names, Not Route Numbers

This comes back to the way they sign things in Italy. You’re not looking for the A1 when you leave Florence airport, you are looking for the A1 Roma or the A1 Bologna. Once you get on that highway it may give you a variety of different route numbers such as the E185, SS125 etc that can get really confusing, so think directionally and keep looking for the name of the town you are going to.

From Florence I take the A1 Roma to whichever roads are taking me to San Gimignano – I don’t get too involved with the route numbers, I just keep looking for the San Gimi signs, which is a much easier way to do it.

If your little town isn’t likely to have much signage, at least know which big towns are in that direction.

8. Roundabouts

Italian roundabout

If you don’t live somewhere that uses roundabouts they can be confusing. I grew up with them, so they are second nature to me, but if they are new or unfamiliar to you, here’s the deal:

Always yield (or give way) to the left. You merge into the traffic when there is a space.

There are no lanes in roundabouts, so stay in the space you entered.

Your GPS will tell you which exit to take, such as take the 3rd exit on the right. Sometimes this is a guessing game as the 2nd exit could be a dirt track or maybe just the suggestion of an exit. There will be vertically stacked signs for all the places off each exit, which makes having a passenger navigating for you so much easier!

If you can’t figure it out just stay on the roundabout, making loops until you see your sign. One time with my then 12 year old riding shotgun we looped around the roundabout about 20 times before we found our exit, which was one of about 40 signs all stacked up, and wasn’t easy to find the first 19 times! Really it’s all just part of the fun.

RELATED POST: HOW TO ORDER COFFEE IN ITALY

9. Stay To The Right

Most of the motorways are going to be two lanes in each direction. The left lane is for passing, so stay in the right lane unless you are passing someone.

10. Watch For Speed Traps

There are camera speed traps along all the motorways/highways. Just as with ZTLs you won’t know you’ve got a speeding fine for months, and these fines are hefty.

camera speed trap on italian road.

I have learned the hard way that if my name and credit card are the ones on the rental car booking, no one else is driving. A year or so after a trip driving through Puglia I found that my friend who kept wanting to drive had been blowing through speed traps like a race car driver. Each fine was for 270 euros, each also came with an administrative fee from Hertz, and each fine was set to double if not paid in 60 days.

camera speed trap sign on italian road

Luckily each fine indicated exactly where the speeding had happened, so I was able to show her that it was all her, but it took some wrangling to get the money wired to Puglia and off my card.

11. There Will Be Tolls

Be prepared for toll roads and toll booths. Just because they mostly take credit cards doesn’t mean the credit card machine will be working, so have coins ready.

toll booth on italian highway
Don’t go in the yellow line…

Also as you are exiting the motorway into the toll area look for the yellow telepass sign and then make sure you don’t go in those lanes. My first time driving alone in Italy I got into the telepass lane, backed traffic up all the way to the motorway, couldn’t get out of the line, and was somewhere between a heart attack and bursting into tears when a nice fellow on a motorbike figured out what was up and came and rescued me.

I haven’t made that mistake twice!

You can’t guarantee that there will be a human working the toll booth, so have a variety of coins with you.

12. Don’t Trust The GPS

Well not entirely anyway. One time I had the people at Hertz program the rental car’s built in GPS system for me. Initially it was shouting at me in Russian, but once I got it to English it started giving me crazy directions. I was on my way to San Gimignano, a route I have driven a thousand times, so I knew it was giving me crazy-wrong directions.

On your phone the Google Maps GPS is the worst and will try to drive you off cliffs. Waze is good but will always take you on circuitous routes that may save you minutes but will have you arriving with a full head of grey hair, as it routes you through alleyways and side streets and hair raising turns. Apple Maps is perhaps the best, but Siri still doesn’t always get it right.

If you miss a highway exit it can be 30 minutes before you get to the next one to turn back. With that in mind, mapping the drive beforehand can be a really good idea, just so you have a general idea of where you’re going.

13. You May Get A Stick Shift

In Italy I actually prefer driving a stick shift, especially when driving through the hills. I spend a considerable amount of driving time in Tuscany, which in turn means a lot of time driving through the hills! A stick shift gives you so much more control as you are buzzing around the countryside and is much more fun to drive.

Fiat 500 XL Interior

This past summer Hertz put me in an automatic station wagon, which apart from having zero coolness whatsoever, also was a pain to drive in the hills as it couldn’t down shift quickly enough.

volvo station wagon tuscany
The mom wagon in Tuscany. Sensible but not a great drive in the hills.

But be advised that most of the rental cars in Europe are stick shifts. If you require an automatic you need to specify that when you book your car, but it doesn’t mean you’ll get one. If none have come back in when you are picking your car up you will be given a manual transmission.

14. Rent A Diesel

In my experience renting endless cars in Italy, diesels get much better gas mileage and diesel is much less expensive than petrol/gasoline.

Expect to pay between $7 and $9 per gallon on gasoline.

Whenever possible, book a diesel! They run quietly and efficiently and leave you with more money for shopping.

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15. Get Super Cover

You will have several insurance options with your rental car. Choose the Super Cover option. This comes with zero deductible, so if anything happens to your car you can walk away.

Most rental car companies have a 3000 euro deductible and will have you paying through the nose for the smallest scratch.

A cursory glance at cars in Italy will tell you that most of them are covered in dings and scratches.

The chances of someone bumping your parked car or opening their door into it are huge, so it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Super Cover is expensive and can add an extra 45 euros per day to your 20 euro per day rental, but can be worth every penny if you get so much as one scratch on your car.

16. Stop At An Autogrille

At least once while you are driving on the highways in Italy, stop at an Autogrille. These are something like our truck stops in the U.S. but oh so different!

Yes you can gas up the car there, but they also have a full espresso bar, a full bar, and really fantastic food.

autogrille truck stop foos in iatly is incredible!
Can you even believe this is a truckstop???

Unlike the guaranteed gastric turmoil of the smelly rolling sausages and dubious foods at truck stops here in the states, the food at the truck stops across Italy is tremendous. From fresh panini to crisp salads and much more, a country whose culture is so deeply bound into their cuisine doesn’t tolerate bad food for hungry travelers!

fresh salads at autogrille in Italy
fresh salads at Autogrille

Even after all these years of travel in Italy I still get a huge kick out of stopping at Autogrilles. Often we will buy breads and cheeses and fresh sliced prosciutto at a local village market to bring home for dinner then stop at an Autogrille on the way home and pick up salad to have with it. You will love it!

For more tips on traveling in Italy pick up my best selling book Glam Italia! How To Travel Italy: Secrets To Glamorous Travel (On A Not So Glamorous Budget)    Available worldwide on Amazon. Join my Private Members Newsletter HERE for twice monthly newsletters giving you more tips and ideas to take your Italy trip from great to completely fantastic!

See you in the piazza…

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